Ayodhya Diaries 1: Hanuman and Kali

Worshipped as a celibate god in most parts of India, a temple in Ayodhya is unique in its depiction of Hanuman in the female form

Title: Hanuman Bearing the Mountaintop with Medicinal Herbs, Date: ca. 1800, Culture: India (Rajasthan), Medium: Ink and opaque watercolor on cloth. Copyright: Met Museum Open Access images

The Ramayana has many versions and Rama is imagined in diverse ways among the different regions and people of the country. Therefore, it is not unusual to run into a story that is completely different from the one we know are used to. But, Hanuman as a goddess! That is a new one, even for the hardened version hunters that we at The Mythology Project are.

In a temple, known locally as Kaleramji ka mandir (the temple of a black Ram), inside a busy lane bustling with other temples and a throng of worshippers, stands Hanuman, black, dressed up in a saree and adorned in gold and pearls. A priest keeps watch over the idol, telling all who wander in about a story that goes like this: Ravana had a shadow-double called Mahiravana who was a great worshipper of the goddess Kali. As the battle grew fierce and it seemed like Ram’s army was gaining the upper hand, Mahiravana asked for help from Kali, promising to sacrifice the two heroes to her in return for his brother’s victory. The goddess agreed and Mahiravana kidnapped Ram and Lakshman and took them to his palace underground. When Hanuman discovered this, he made his way into the palace and confronted the goddess at her allowing such a harsh sacrifice. By condoning the death of two good men such as Ram and Lakshman, Hanuman said the goddess was making a big mistake. Kali was remorseful as she realised that Hanuman was right and asked him to help her. So, Hanuman stood in her spot (or hid in the vicinity), waiting for Mahiravan and his captives. Soon, Ram and Lakshman arrived and Mahiravan got ready for the slaughter. As a last wish, Mahiravana asked the two to think of someone close to them. Ram thought about Hanuman who instantly appeared before him in the form of the goddess Kali. In this form, he became a woman, in mind and body and that is the idol that is worshipped in the temple of Kaleramji. And since the idol stands facing Ram, towards the south, it is also known as Dakshina-murti Anjaneya.

This story is found in the Skanda Purana and has been incorporated into several versions of the Ramayana.

Finding the idol of Hanuman in Ayodhya was quite a suprise for us but it is also a reminder of just how widespread his worship is. Today his followers extend all over the subcontinent and in many parts of India, his role has come to resemble that of a god who grants wishes. From being a fierce devotee to having millions of followers it has been a long and interesting journey of deification for Hanuman.